Things to do in Kakadu without a 4WD
Should you even bother visiting Kakadu National Park without a 4WD? Absolutely. Here’s what you can see and get up to via 2WD alone.
Kakadu is not only one of Australia’s largest national parks – it’s dual-listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List thanks to its outstanding wildlife and cultural heritage.
Only four places in Australia can claim this status, so Kakadu must be pretty special, right?
Spoiler – it is – and it’s well worth visiting on a trip to or within the Northern Territory. And there are plenty to things to see and do in Kakadu if you’re only able to rent a 2WD.
Alongside it’s amazing plant and bird life, the park contains archeological sites with Aboriginal rock art that is tens of thousands of years old. Many of Europe’s ancient sites are about 2000 years young, if you’d like a comparison.
The area is home to six seasons, according to the Traditional Owners of the land, the Bininj/Mungguy. I visited the park during Wurrkeng (July/August), part of the Territory’s ‘dry season’.
It’s an excellent stop-off to make from Darwin, particularly if you’re hanging around the NT for a few days before boarding The Ghan.
While a sturdy 4WD will allow you to see much of the park, it’s not necessary. Many popular sites are still very much accessible with a standard 2WD.
Read on to find out what you can do in Kakadu on a short road trip from Darwin, if you’re limited to a 2WD.
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Things to do in Kakadu with a 2WD
Facts about Kakadu National Park
Here are some things worth knowing about Kakadu before you visit:
- The size of Kakadu is almost 20,000 square kilometres, which is around half that of Switzerland.
- The park is big enough to contain six regions – East Alligator (Erre), Jabiru, Jim Jim/Twin Falls, Mary River, Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), South Alligator and Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba). Not all of these regions are accessible by 2WD.
- First Nations people have inhabited the park for 65,000 years and the oldest rock art has been dated to about 20,000 years.
- The park is home to around 10,000 crocodiles.
- There are also 2000 species of plants. Australia’s plant life is mad!
Kakadu: know before you go
So, what do you need to know about travelling to Kakadu?
You’ll need a Park Pass, which you can purchase either online, or once you’re in the park at places like the Bowali Visitor Centre. There are also some places outside of the park that sell the pass.
The pass is valid for 7 days. See prices for adults, children and family.
Make sure you fill up on fuel, as needed. If you’re heading to Kakadu from Darwin, I very much recommend filling your tank in the city, or nearby Humpty Doo.
There are fuel stations within the park (notably at Jabiru and Cooinda Lodge), which you can use as needed. Keep in mind, these places are remote, which will be reflected in fuel prices.
Supplies in the area are limited too. Cooinda has a general store with food, snacks, souvenirs and some camping gear and essentials. Jabiru also has a supermarket, but it’s not rammed with options.
If you’re keen to BBQ a dinner one night, or require an array of snacks to live, I recommend purchasing groceries at the nearest hub and bringing them into the park with you.
Read my extensive list of road trip tips for Australia, for more information about driving around this immense country.
When is the best time to visit Kakadu?
The most popular time to visit Kakadu is during ‘the Dry’, which runs roughly from May to early September.
Temperatures in the Northern Territory at this time of year are fairly mild, and rainfall is limited.
However, keep in mind that this is peak tourist season. If you want to see a different side of Kakadu, you might plan a trip for a different time of the year.
November to April is the tropical season, with very cool afternoon storms and vivid green landscapres. While a number of attractions close due to flooding, you can still visit many of the sites that are accessible to 2WDs, such as Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water.
Take a scenic flight at this time of the year, to see the waterfalls at full flow.
Kakadu doesn’t just have two seasons, however. The region’s Traditional Owners recognise six different seasons, which are each marked by subtle variations in the weather.
Is it OK to travel around Kakadu without a 4WD?
The main roads in and through Kakadu National Park are sealed, making them very much accessible by 2WD.
Make sure you don’t go off road onto unsealed dirt roads, especially in a rental car, and you’ll be totally fine.
It’s also worth noting that within Kakadu National Park, there is a speed limit of 130 kilometres an hour, along two lane roads (so, one lane in one direction). Driving that fast is at first terrifying, and then exhilarating! And it makes 100kms seem so slow in comparison…
How to get to Kakadu
You can’t fly directly to Kakadu – you’ll need to fly to either Darwin or Alice Springs, then hire a car.
Driving from Darwin
This journey takes around three hours, without stopping. You’ll leave Darwin from the Stuart Highway, then travel long the Arnhem Highway.
Driving from Katherine
It’s also a three hour drive from the town of Katherine to Kakadu, along the Stuart Highway and then on to Kakadu Highway.
Driving from Alice Springs
Or, take the famed Red Centre Way! If you were to drive non-stop from Alice to Jabiru, it would take you around 16 hours.
This is obviously a long drive, so split it up over a few days and stop to see the sights along the way.
Where to stay in Kakadu
There aren’t many options for accommodation within Kakadu National Park, unless you’re totally happy to camp. My advice is book early, if you’re not camping or travelling with a caravan.
One of the more popular areas to stay is Cooinda Lodge, which offers villas and glamping options, alongside sites for camping and caravans.
If you like quirky accommodation options, you may wish to stay at a hotel that looks like a crocodile! Mercure Kakadu Crocodile is located in Jabiru. It’s a good base for exploring Ubirr and Nourlangie, sites that are accessible by 2WD.
Aurora Kakadu Lodge is also in the area, around a three minute drive from the town centre.
There are also plenty of options for caravaning and camping. No need to book these in advance – you can rock up and pay the fees to the site manager.
Things to do in Kakadu without a 4WD
Here’s what you can get up to if you’re travelling through Kakadu in a 2WD.
You can refer to the map below, to get an idea of where these sites are located in relation to each other.
1. Sunrise Yellow Water Cruise
This was by far the highlight of my time spent in Kakadu.
Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water) is a billabong located at the end of Jim Jim creek and is home to an array of wildlife and plantlife.
Yellow Water cruises run throughout the day, but I strongly encourage you to book the sunrise cruise, if it works with your itinerary.
You will see so much birdlife and also a ton of crocs during this 120 minute cruise. Plus, it’s plain lovely to start the day out on the water.
2. Glamping at Cooinda
A very easy and fun thing to do in Kakadu, which doesn’t require a 4WD.
Cooinda Lodge is located in the park, next to Yellow Water.
While it offers villas, campsites and caravan parks, for a bit of fun, you can stay in their ‘Outback Retreat’.
One thing I would recommend doing is booking a tent with an ensuite, just in case nature calls in the middle of the night.
3. Cahills Crossing
Desperate to see some crocs (from a safe distance)?
The Cahills Crossing viewing area is on the western bank of East Alligator river. You can watch estuarine crocodiles (‘salties’) in the wild from this safe vantage point.
There are three viewing platforms. Pack a picnic and take the nearby rainforest walk, to extend your time here.
The best time to see crocs is from July to October/November.
4. Ubirr Rock Art
If you’re keen to view Aboriginal rock art, then Ubirr is a must-visit.
Points of interest include artworks depicted early contact with Europeans, dated to the late 1800s.
There’s also a painting of a thylacine, Tasmania’s famed ‘tiger’. These were believed to have become extinct on the mainland 2000-3000 years ago. Sadly and famously, the last specimen died in a Hobart zoo in 1936.
5. Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre
Learn about Bininj art, artists, culture and history at Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.
The centre, created by the Bininj/Mungguy people, tells stories of life on Country for the last 65,000 years.
There are interactive displays, working artists on site. Visitors can even try a hand in weaving, painting and sculpting traditions, or buy a piece of local art.
6. Nawurlandja
A scramble up this short but steep rocky slope leads to epic views across Anbangbang Billabong to Burrungkuy (Nourlangie).
There’s a real sense of power to this spot and it’s worth visiting at any time of the day. It gives you a real sense of the immense scale of Kakadu, too.
7. Burrungkuy (Nourlangie)
This is one of the most accessible sites in Kakadu for rock art.
Stretch your legs around the Anbangbang Billabong walk, which takes you through savanna woodland and paperbark forest.
The Nanguluwurr art site walk features a rock painting of a European ship and natives flora.
Keep an eye out for wildlife endemic to this area, such as the chestnut-quilled rock pigeon and black wallaroo.
8. Mamukala Wetlands
Another area that’s easily accessed by 2WD are these phenomenal wetlands. See an astonishing array of birdlife in a place that is home to one-third of Australia’s bird species.
Top contenders include magpie geese, jacanas or ‘Jesus birds’, willie wagtails, finches and maybe even a kingfisher.
9. Yilikadjarr walk
You can start this walk at either the Malabanjdbanjdju or Burdulba campgrounds. You’ll thread through open woodlands and see a pleasing amount of birdlife.
It takes around 1 hour to complete the 3.8 kilometre loop, which is only open during the dry season.
If you love birds as much as I do (which is an awful lot), I recommend timing your visit with Kakadu Bird Week. It runs in September, so can be quite warm, but increases your chances of seeing feathered friends.
Tours to Kakadu
If you don’t want to drive a 4WD or even a 2WD to Kakadu, then you can opt to jump on a day tour from Darwin instead.
While it’s a long drive there and back, you’ll be able to see some of the park’s best sights, or at least the things you can do without a 4WD.
Book a day tour to Kakadu:
If you have a little more time up your sleeve, you could book onto a longer tour, which will take you to sights you may not be able to access independently with a 2WD.
Where to eat in Kakadu
There aren’t many options for food in Kakadu, with most venues being located at Cooinda Lodge.
Cooinda is home to two eateries – Mim’s Restaurant and Barra Bar.
Mim’s is a bit more upmarket, offering a set menu. This is also where you can dine for brekky if you’re either staying at the lodge, or catching the sunrise Yellow Water cruise.
Barra Bar is a bit more bistro-like and offers outdoor seating. I ordered a pizza with crocodile and buffalo on it for my dinner and it was absolutely delicious.
I highly recommend bringing along any other food or snacks you feel you might need.
How long should you spend in Kakadu?
It’s really up to you and your schedule.
The park pass covers entry for seven days, but you don’t really need a week to see everything that is accessible by 2WD.
If you’re in a real rush, you can drive to in from Darwin, stay at Cooinda or in Jabiru and experience most of the things to do in Kakadu without a 4WD, heading back the next afternoon.
This will be rushed and involve a lot of driving, but it is possible.
For a more comfortable pace, I recommend spending two nights in Kakadu. This will allow you a bit of a rest in-between from hours of driving, and allow you to experience the park in your own time.
If you have a 4WD, then I recommend stretching out your time in the park, so you can see the sites that are inaccessible via 2WD.
What to do with one day in Kakadu
If you’ve only got one night to spend in Kakadu, I recommend the following:
- Visit Ubirr on the way in
- Stay at Cooinda Lodge
- Jump on the sunrise Yellow Water Cruise
- Visit Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Nawurlandja
- Drop into Mamukala Wetlands on the way out
For more on the Northern Territory, see my guide to hiking the Jatbula Trail, alongside amazing things to do at Uluṟu (for every budget).
And here’s a list of travel essentials for Australia and some other epic road trips you can take in this astonishingly beautiful country.
Kakadu National Park is located on Bininj/Mungguy land. I acknowledge the Traditional Owners and pay my respects to their Elders, past and present.
